What to See and Do in Edinburgh

A walk from the Bonham Hotel, through Edinburgh's hidden village.

As you leave The Bonham hotel turn right along Rothesay Terrace and then right into Douglas Gardens. As you descend the hill take a look along Rothesay Mews. When the surrounding imposing houses were built, the occupants had to rely on horse-driven transport. The horses would have been stabled here with the grooms living above. The view ahead is north west across to the Firth of Forth to Fife and beyond.

At the foot of the hill, cross Belford Road and turn left over the Belford Bridge (1887). As soon as you’ve crossed the bridge, turn sharp right and descend the path to the Water of Leith Walkway (signposted) and follow the river. This is Edinburgh's principal river and, although not as grandiose as the Thames, the Clyde, or the Tyne, it was of enormous importance to Edinburgh’s economy providing the power for over seventy water mills used for grinding corn and flour, paper-making, washing and waulking (fulling) cloth and pumping water for tanneries and polishing ornamental stone.

Soon after the impressive Damhead Weir, the path terminates temporarily and you turn left into Damside and then right into the heart of the Dean Village which was formerly known as Village of the Water of Leith. On the way take a look into the large sandstone Well Court on your right. The building with the clock tower was the former community hall of the village. Cross the Old Dean Bridge which, before the construction of Telford’s Bridge, took traffic from Edinburgh to Queensferry and the North. Note on an adjoining wall, the carved stone, dated 1619 and, depicting crossed wooden shovels representing “baxters” – the Scots term for bakers.

Straight ahead of you after crossing the bridge is Baxter’s Tolbooth, now converted into flats and somewhat spoilt by the ubiquitous pebble-dash. This used to be the headquarters of the Incorporation of the Baxters and served, for a time, as their granary. The carving over the boarded doorway depicts the crossed shovels, three cakes and a pie and the Inscription “Gods Providence is our Inheritance” and “God Bless the Baxters of Edinburgh who built this House 1675”. Beside the bridge is an early seventeenth century house restored by Sir Basil Spence.

When you crossed the Old Dean Bridge you will have seen one span of its successor designed by the great Scots architect Thomas Telford and opened in 1832. Its now time to take a closer look at one of the most impressive stone bridges in Scotland.

Turn left into Miller Row and, once again, follow the river. On your left you will see an observation site featuring 3 millstones. As you continue along the path you will see, on both sides, dwellings forming part of Edinburgh’s New Town together with their “pleasure gardens” which were established for the particular benefit of children living in these houses.

About 200 metres after passing under the Dean Bridge you will see, on your left, St Bernard’s Well which, at one time, was the supposed source of health giving water.

You will soon reach St Bernard’s Bridge which you should ascend and turn left and, on reaching St Bernard’s Crescent, turn left again. This brings you to Ann Street, one of Edinburgh’s most attractive streets reputedly named after the wife of the Scots portrait painter Sir Henry Raeburn.

At the end of Ann Street turn left up Dean Park Crescent and left again at the top into Clarendon Crescent. You are now in the former estate of Lord Provost Henry Learmonth who had “bankrolled” the new Dean Bridge in the belief that its construction would dramatically increase the value of his land. Cross the bridge spanning the path you followed earlier.

Follow the main Queensferry Road round to the left and then use the pedestrian crossing to reach Drumsheugh Gardens. Bear right into Drumsheugh Place leading back to the Bonham Hotel.

Estimated time: 1 hour